Finding the right fit is hard, but how do I know if I have the right fit? A common question I have been getting since starting William & Lauren. Everyone has various preferences on the fit, but there are a few key things that every suit should have in order to be the right fit. We want to give you a few of the main ones as our men's suit fit guide.
1. Pant Length or “Break”
The break is the small wrinkle created when your pant cuff hits your shoe. Style can dictate your preference for the amount of break, the more modern look is no break. However, the standard guideline is a small, subtle break. One small crease is usually ideal as the cuff rests on top of your shoe, they need to touch but there shouldn’t be much more than that.
No Break: A more modern fit but still good length. Slight Break: A slight crease, pant touching shoe but not a large crease.
When men buy off the rack the shoulder is one of the most common to not fit properly. You usually have to give up the shoulder to gain the right fit somewhere else. The shoulder should lie flat and the seam of the suit should form where your arm meets your shoulder. The shoulder fit is the hardest to adjust and the most important, don’t buy a piece that does not fit in the shoulders, you’ll never be able to get it to fit properly.
3. Jacket Length
Jacket length can really change the look and is important when it comes to a proper fit. For the perfect fit, the back should cover your butt, ideally where the butt curves back in towards your thighs.
The best way to tell if a jacket is the right length is by using your hands. Ann appropriate modern length will hit in the middle of your hand, at about where your thumb joint meets your arms hanging at rest.
4. Sleeve Length
If your sleeve length is proper, we should see about a half inch of your shirt cuff beyond your jacket sleeve. It doesn’t have to be exact, but use that as a guideline and make sure some of your shirt cuff shows from your jacket. You should never see the full cuff. If the seam of your cuff shows then your shirt is either too long or your jacket is to short.
5. Jacket Collar
The last piece to help with the perfect fit is your collar. This is easy to tell if it fits, but finding the reason can be hard.
You want your jacket to rest against your shirt collar without significant gaps in the neck. Generally if you have a gap between the suit collar and the shirt collar you need to make some adjustments in fit so you have the smooth lines similar to the pictures below.
When you’re making investments in suits make sure you’re getting the best fit and putting your best foot forward!